Day #71 October 20,2007

Day #71
Saturday October 20, 2007

Ashville, NC to Asheville, NC
96 miles today (27,993 – 28,029)
13,562 miles total
35 states total (+Wash. DC and Canada)

A pretty chilly morning, but the sun is shining brightly. Should be a gorgeous day. I got dressed and had breakfast at a Shoney’s several miles down the road. Of course, the waitress wanted to know all about the trip once she discovered what I was doing. The leathers were a dead giveaway. She and her husband hope to ride to the Grand Canyon this coming summer.

After breakfast, I cleaned up the tent some, organized, showered and tried the internet. No service this morning. I figure it’s their down time or something. So I took the ride into Maggie Valley to see the Wheels of Time motorcycle museum. Lots and lots and LOTS of old Harley stuff, including a motorized HD tiller and a HD log saw. Several old cars, a plane or two. They claim that everything in there will run. I would guess there are a couple of hundred old bikes in there. They had some good vignettes set up for different periods. One was a hill of dirt about 12’ or more high with various hill climbing bikes on and around the hill. Another was an old garage, with a gravel floor, complete down to the oil stains and spills on the gravel. The display with the tiller and saw was built around what appeared to me to be an old mining scene. Some of the motorized things were on rails.

The afternoon ride was beautiful. Lots of traffic in the little town of Maggie Valley. Every motel I saw said NO vacancy. I hope to ride across the mountain into Gatlinburg and do the Tail of the Dragon tomorrow. I’ll have to leave early if I’m going to do all that in one day. And I’ve got to work in the remaining nearly 70 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway yet, too.

I’ve met several other bikers here and picked up some good information. A Knoxville, TN couple warned me about the sport bikers up on the Deals Gap road. And a Stuart, FL man (where Natalie’s sister lives) is going to try to connect me with some of his buddies who have gone into the Keys several times. And a nice couple with 2 kids from South Carolina pulled in late yesterday afternoon in a big Monaco Coach. She warned me of a big football game this coming weekend that will have the I-95 traffic tied up for miles or days. These folks purchased their coach from Lazy Days in Tampa, I believe he said. I remember engraving Lazy Days on lots of Country Coach sales awards. Both Monaco and Country Coach are manufactured in the Eugene and Junction City area of Oregon.

It’s been a pretty relaxing, peaceful day. I didn’t really intend to ride at all, even the 96 miles. But since I had no internet I decided to enjoy the weather.

The "Clyde" pic is for my friend in Eugene, Mr. Beebe!

Day #70 October 19, 2007

Day #70

Friday October 19, 2007

Boone, NC to Asheville, NC

163 miles today (27,770 - 27,933)

13,466 miles total

35 states total (+Wash. DC and Canada)

Again, for the 2nd day in a row, the word of the day is FOG!
Before hitting the parkway, I stopped for coffee at a gas station waiting for daylight to show up. I didn’t want to ride the parkway in the dark. While there, I met a man who had lived in Springfield, OR until he was 7. And tonight at the drug store, one of the clerks had relatives that lived in Eugene, OR for years. I didn’t recognize the names. To my daughter Karla: Yes dear, it is amazing how many Oregon connections there are no matter where I go!! And yes, in order to have friends, you must be friendly!

Back to the FOG! It appeared early again today, within just a few miles of getting started. I had no traveling companions today (Keith and Sharon), so I just pressed on. When the fog was absent, the trees and their colors were even MORE vivid than yesterday! Each day the colors just deepen. For the 4th day in a row, I have no idea how far I will travel. I thought I would do the 470 mile parkway in 2-3 days. This is day #4 and I am STILL nearly 70 miles from being to the end. I’m hearing 3-4 hours to cover the last 70 miles. The speed limit is only 45 mph, and I’ve heard strictly enforced. However, I’ve yet to see anyone out here in 4 days who would be concerned about it.

I rode for nearly 2 hours this morning when I was ready for a warm up at one of the park service owned gift shop/snack bars. However, they didn’t open till 10, nearly 20 minutes away. I wasn’t going to wait around. Why, I could cover 3-4 more miles at the rate I’m traveling this morning! While there I met another rider who was also going south. He was headed to Birmingham, AL for the big vintage bike show and swap meet.

After this stop, about 20 minutes later, the forecasted rain made a very strong appearance. Buckets? A torrent? Cats and dogs? I don’t know best how to describe it, but I had to pull off the road. After about 15 minutes of just standing in the rain, it finally eased, so I moved on again. But the fog remained. I saw on my map a place called Mt. Mitchell which is the highest point east of the Mississippi. It was within the park boundary, and only 5 miles off the road. Being this close, I wanted to stop, even if I knew I would never see the summit on a day like this. But as I got closer, I discovered there was a restaurant near the top. Finally, a warm up spot. The summit was about like Mt. Washington in NH back on day #50; windy, foggy, and cold. Soup and coffee helped warm me up as I watched the fog and clouds blow by at a steady clip. Another solo rider there gave me some warnings about the wind in the Keys when I go there.

As I drove down the mountain in the afternoon and began to drop in to Asheville, NC, the sky cleared, the temp climbed some, and the roads dried out. However, the traffic got thick. I thought seriously of a motel for the weekend as I’ve heard from 3 different sources this is expected to be the busiest tourist weekend of the year in and around Smoky Mtn National Park. But the $140/night price tag of a mid-grade motel drove me to the KOA. It’s great. Good wi-fi, nice people, not crowded, so I’m convinced it’s exactly where I need to be. I even set up a canopy over the picnic table, intending to catch up on the blog tomorrow and Sunday.
I’ll sit tight here tomorrow and Sunday and let the tourists clear out of the Smokies before I head over that way Monday. I’ll want to do the Tail of the Dragon, see downtown Gatlinburg, visit the Wheels in Time motorcycle museum, all while down here.

Nat, you'd like the decorations here at the KOA campground. A pic of the hosts is at the top of the page. Can you figure out which ones they are?

Day #69 October 18, 2007

Day #69
Thursday October 18, 2007
Meadows of Dan, VA to Boone, NC
137 beautiful miles today (27,633 - 27,770)
13,303 miles total
1 new state today: North Carolina
35 states total (+Wash DC & Canada)

The “Word for the Day” today is: F-O-G!!!! More on that later…

I got up early and packed, ready to go long before the sun got up. Once daylight appeared, I realized there would be NO sun today! I went to the back porch of the campground and Will was making coffee. Another rider showed up, named Bruce, who had arrived after dark last night. He was from NH and on his way to Birmingham, AL to a vintage motorcycle show/swap meet and museum. We had breakfast together at Mabry Mill on the Blue Ridge Parkway. We parted company from there, as he had to go back and tear down his camp. I headed south on the Blue Ridge.

I traveled only 16 miles until I literally had to pull over. I wanted to pull over sooner, but this was the first available spot. The fog is so thick I can’t see to ride. I paced off the steps from my bike before it disappeared before my eyes, and all it took was 20 paces, or about 60 ft, and I could no longer see the bike at all. Riding in this is crazy and VERY taxing on the senses. Everything is heightened and tense.

After 45 minutes or so of sitting there, reading, checking maps, walking around, a Gold Wing pulling a Bushtec trailer pulled in with a couple on it. This was my “divine appointment” for the day. They too were tired of riding in this and had pulled off hoping for it to lift. We visited a while and I found out they were believers from Nashville, TN. They knew of Paris, TN (their hometown originally), Paducah, Benton and Mayfield, KY. They lead worship conferences at different places. We decided we’d ride together, since we both had CB’s and it would provide some additional security/safety to have someone else along on a day like this. We rode along, talking about our families, jobs, trips etc. and had lunch together at one of the park restaurants along the parkway. Finally about 3:45PM, shortly after a gas stop, they went ahead down the parkway toward Asheville and I turned off toward Boone to find the KOA.

The fog was off and on all day long. At two different times for 15 or 20 minutes, I led us along at 30mph because the fog was just so thick. But the leaves…the leaves were MORE BEAUTIFUL than the previous two days, if that is possible. The colors are just popping out! We rode through one really neat “tunnel” of trees where the trees nearly touched one another toward the center of the roadway.

Forecasted tonight is rain! There are no cabins available for tonight at the Boone KOA.
They do have some tent sites with covered, graveled “patios” for lack of a better description. The guy at the KOA store suggested I drag the table out and pull the trailer in under the cover. The graveled area has a 4x6 frame, with the 6” dimension coming up out of the ground. I build some ramps out of gravel and 2x’s to get over it, but in trying to get the bike OUT of the framed in area, I got stuck…I got high centered on the crashbars! I had to get help getting out. They were kind enough to help, especially the guy that suggested I try that! They were good sports about it!

Showered, did laundry, moved photos from the camera to the laptop and tried the web.
Nope, no service. The blog is SO far behind….

Day #68 October 17, 2007

Day #68
Wednesday October 17, 2007
Waynesboro, VA to Meadows of Dan, VA
226 beautiful miles today (27,407 - 27,633)
13,166 miles total
34 states total (+Wash DC & Canada)

I got up about 5AM so I could do more than 122 miles today. Here it is at 6:45, I am sitting in the local greasy spoon, Weasie’s Kitchen. All your local “old timers” are here. The sun is just beginning to lighten up the sky behind the mountains that I rode on yesterday. I can see them from the table where I am sitting. I’m looking forward to another beautiful day.

5:30 PM
I have ridden over 178 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway today. I can remember all the way back to Day #9, which was August 1st, when I rode the Chief Joseph Highway (WY state route 296) which goes from the NE entrance of Yellowstone Nat’l Park to Cody, WY. I thought IT was beautiful! I think I have found its competitor. I often caught myself actually saying out loud “Whoa!” as I rounded a curve, or climbed the hill, or pulled into an overlook turnout. The trees, it’s as if some of them were SHOUTING with their colors. Some just popped! The mountains and hills, some far off in the distance, were peppered with reds, oranges, yellows and every shade in between. Today, the Blue Ridge Mountains were like a carpet, all woven together to create a fantastic tapestry. And today, God was the weaver, and I got to observe His weaving. “Wow!” is all I can say.

Early this morning, I stopped after breakfast at a wayside picnic area. You had to drive off the main parkway 100 yards. The grounds were laid out in a large loop. In the center was a pair of restrooms. Scattered throughout the grounds, arranged around the loop were picnic tables and parking spaces. This must have been about 8AM. It was still, quiet and very peaceful. Squirrels were all over the ground. The leaves were crunching under their feet. Then I saw the deer. I had already seen 3 right on the road earlier, but I probably saw 12 here in the picnic area. I counted 4 fawns. One young buck stood between me and the bathrooms for over a minute. He was frozen in place, standing broadside to me, with his head turned back just staring me down. I watched, moved as little as possible, and snapped off a couple of pictures before he bounded away.

The ride today WAS better than the ride yesterday, just as John and MJ said it would be. I couldn’t believe it. And I’ve already heard from a local, that it gets only better as I get into North Carolina. How can it?! At one point I got behind a motorhome. As it approached a turnout to let me by, I saw their tags were OREGON! So instead of passing, I pulled along side and asked where in Oregon. Albany, OR is their home and they were on their way to New Orleans I believe. Amazing that on the Blue Ridge Parkway I would meet someone from that close to home.

Tonight I am camped at a motorcycle only campground. There is only me and one other couple here. They are from somewhere in NC, and are camped for 4 days, just to ride and see the sites. They are up here nearly every weekend he told me. There is a big pavilion in the campground, that looks nearly new, which has 2 cast bronze plaques, a large perpetual plaque, and large oval shaped portrait of a guy on a motorcycle. They are all in honor and memory of the man in the photo, but I don’t know what the story is behind it all. I hope I can find out before I go tomorrow. Also, the owner of the campground, his sister and her husband are here visiting, and they are from Seattle, WA. Another NW connection.

It has been an absolutely fantastic day of riding today…but rain is in the forecast for tomorrow sometime. We shall see. “Into every life, a little rain must fall.”

Day #67 October 16, 2007

Day #67
Tuesday October 16, 2007
Front Royal, VA to Waynesboro, VA
122 miles today (27,285 - 27,407)
12,940 miles total
34 states total

ONLY 122 miles traveled today, but oh what miles they were! I rode the 105 mile length of the Skyline Drive, overlooking the Shenandoah Valley. Virginia is an especially beautiful state. The Shenandoah Valley is just awesome. I have no new words to describe the views, and I know the old words are just worn out. The hilltops (mountains here) are just covered in trees in all kinds of colors. The view from up on top (the Skyline Drive) revealed just a patchwork quilt of woods, farms, small towns and open fields. The riding, with a 35 mph speed limit along the entire 105 mile length forces you to take in the scenery. I couldn’t ALWAYS stay at 35, but it did force me to really enjoy the riding today.

I had lunch at one of the ridgetop picnic areas. The pullouts, viewpoints, and picnic areas are numerous. The black bear warning signs are pretty prevalent though. I met a couple, Chuck and Becky from here in Virginia. They had lots of questions about the trailer and my trip. Becky later said I had inspired Chuck to keep on pursuing that motorcycling dream. I think Becky is after 55 acres in the country, so Chuck may have to dream a little longer.

Later in the day at a gas stop, I met a couple, John and MJ, also from Virginia.
He had a sister who lived in Florence, OR for about 3 years. MJ said John couldn’t do a long trip like mine as she just couldn’t be without him that long. But they do ride together, and they know some of what I’ve been experiencing. John has ridden all the roads I intend to take, including Tail of the Dragon. He said the views only get nicer as I go further south toward NC. HOW is that possible!?

The day finished off with one of my riding buddies, Nate Gayle, calling me to check up on me. Nate, you would be speechless seeing some of the views and vistas I have seen today. Just awesome.

It was a VERY good day today.

Day #66 October 15, 2007

Day #66

Monday October 15, 2007

Williamsburg, VA to Front Royal, VA

192 miles today (27,093 - 27,285)

12,718 miles total
34 states total (+ Wash DC & Canada)

I woke up at 3AM and couldn’t go back to sleep! Of course, as fall is here now, dark comes by 6:30 and the sunrise is later. In a tent, even with electricity, there is just not enough to do at this early hour. I spent this morning catching up on my debit card ledger. I’m STILL behind on the blog…just can’t get regular, consistent internet on the road.

Today was a beautiful day of riding! Right out of Williamsburg I rode on US 60 west toward Richmond. The trees lining the road often leaned in at the top, nearly touching one another, creating a tunnel like effect. I did take I-295 around Richmond, and then stayed on that until getting to US 522. US 522 went thur Cuckoo, VA and a little place called Mineral, VA. One sign in Mineral pointed to “Bumpass” which was 5 miles away. You can make your own guess at the proper pronunciation. In Mineral, a little one gas station town in the middle of VA, I passed a pack/ship store that was operated out of a home. I had been packing coffee mugs from the HD factory in York for over a week, as well as numerous magnets for Natalie, brochures, maps and other such things. Nice folks at this place.

The ride all along 522 was hilly, curvy and lined with trees in the midst of their fall color change. I rode around Culpeper looking for lunch. Not finding anything, I rode on thinking I would ride all the way to Front Royal, the top end of the Sky Line Drive and ultimately the Blue Ridge Parkway. Instead, when I got to the little burg of Sperryville, VA, I drove by a little café with a couple of “Motorcycle Parking Only” signs out front. I rode past it, turned around in the parking lot of a motorcycle leather shop at the end of the street. I would come back here after lunch.

The café, name Rae’s (I think!) could have been transported right out of Eugene, OR. It was NOT what I was expecting with the motorcycle signs out front. Of course, I was the only motorcyclist! The menu had the usual café fare, but also had VEGAN choices. The front entryway was covered with flyers announcing various yoga, healing and massage opportunities in the local area. I visited with 2 of the waitresses for a little bit then headed to the cycle shop.

The cycle shop was strictly leather. It was called Mark’s Motorcycle Leatherworks, Inc. Mark Esola, the owner and sole employee, is a retired (20+ years) Special Forces veteran. What a neat guy! We talked and shared about our views of the U.S., the world, and the deteriorating state of both. After visiting both Gettysburg and Wash DC last week, I am MUCH more keenly aware of what others have done and sacrificed so that I can ride freely across our entire nation. I tried to express my appreciation to him for his and his friend’s service, but I’m sure I didn’t do an adequate job. What kind of expression of thanks would be sufficient for that? Mark repaired a zipper pull on my chaps for me, and wouldn’t let me pay him for it. He was just glad to have someone who could relate to some of his view of life and the world we live in. It was a great place to stop. Thanks Mark! What a great place to have stopped!

I rode on into Front Royal and pulled in a motel. I’m tired, have camped 8 days, and will camp the next week until I reach the Atlanta, GA area where I’ll touch base with one of Natalie’s relatives. I hope I can take my time down the Blue Ridge and not get rushed to push on to Key

West.

Day #65 October 14, 2007

Day #65
Sunday October 14, 2007
Whaleyville, MD to Williamsburg, VA
212 miles today (26,881 - 27,093)
12,526 miles total
34 states total (+ Wash. DC & Canada)

It is nearly 7AM on a clear and crisp Maryland morning. I am looking east, sitting at the picnic table and sipping on my second cup of coffee. The eastern sunrise is only moments away. My plans today include crossing the Chesapeake Bay via 2 ferrys. This will knock 100+ miles, or more, and several hours off my time. I am headed back to the Shenandoah Valley where I started yesterday. My preference is mountains over coastline, and I will ride the Sky Line Drive/Blue Ridge Parkway all the way into Gatlinburg, TN. It will energize me for al the coastal miles around Florida, including the Keys, and along the Gulf Coast.

I followed US 13 down almost to the MD/VA state line when I came upon an accident. Eventually, a life flight chopper would take someone out, and 6 ambulances were eventually on the scene. I pulled off the shoulder and waited it out for nearly 45 minutes. The ride down US 13 was all 4 lane, mostly at 60-65 mph, except where it crossed through the little towns. Then there were stop lights. I discovered the ferry was NOT an auto ferry, but for passengers only. So I continued south to the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel where I paid the $16.00 toll to cross. That was so neat! Riding the bridge portion makes me think this is what Key West will be like. The road just eventually “dives” down into the tunnel portion which goes under the water. So cool! I had no trouble navigating to Hampton and on up I-64. The road was busy though, I thought, for a Sunday afternoon. As I approached Williamsburg, I was really feeling out of sorts, maybe from not being hydrated properly. Riding alone, for so long now, I’m getting a better sense of my body and the effects on proper food and water. Since the weather is so much cooler now, I suspect I’m just not drinking enough.

At the Williamsburg KOA, I met a couple from Florida, Paul and Joyce, who were driving a new and beautiful Country Coach bus style RV. It came from Junction City, OR, and I have done lots of things for Country Coach through the years. We talked quite a bit, as he was intrigued by my little pop up camper, especially since it was being pulled by a motorcycle.

I talked to two good friends tonight, Nick in Eugene and Daryl in Batesville, IN.
I’m looking forward now to getting away from the ocean and into the mountains.